Fattier Pork Is Better Pork



JUNE 16, 2017


As the availability of good, fat-marbled pork has risen, so has my adoration of that stalwart favorite, the bone-in pork chop.


Things used to be different.


For years, pigs were put on a diet, then served up lean and mean, without much internal fat to lubricate and flavor their brawny flesh. (Remember “the other white meat” ad campaign”?) The result was often chewy, bland and dry. Not nearly as good as bacon and therefore, in my mind, not worth eating.


You can still certainly find lean pork chops, and if you like them, feel free to use them in this recipe. But the more succulent, dark pink meat of thick-cut chops, most likely raised on small farms, is probably in the supermarket refrigerator case right alongside the skinnier chops. Look for a creamy layer of fat surrounding the meat and bone — this is a sign of something good.


For the cook, the fat serves several purposes: It insulates the meat, keeping it juicier for longer, giving you a larger margin of error when it comes to cooking. Even if you overshoot your target temperature, the fat protects the flesh, keeping it moist.

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Fat also adds flavor, meaning you don’t need to do too much to your chops beyond adding a generous sprinkle of salt and pepper to make them taste fantastic...